Dry skin in winter is something you probably know well: legs that feel tight the moment you step out of the shower, gray and ashy shins, rough hands, and the urge to scratch at night under your tights. As a nurse for more than 10 years, I see the same thing every year as soon as temperatures drop, and Black and mixed-race skin is no exception. In fact, dryness shows up right away on deeper skin tones. The good news: a few simple adjustments are often enough to get through winter with skin that feels much more comfortable. Here's why skin dries out this time of year, and how to adapt your routine step by step.

Why does skin get drier in winter?

The outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum, works like a brick wall: skin cells are the bricks, and lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) are the mortar. This wall keeps water inside your skin. In winter, several things weaken it at the same time.

Cold, dry air

Cold air holds very little moisture. The drier the air around you, the more easily water evaporates from your skin. Wind makes it worse on exposed areas: your hands, face and lips.

Indoor heating

Indoors, heating dries out the air at home, at work and on public transit. Your skin spends the day in a very dry environment, then goes through the shock of moving between the cold outside and the warm inside.

Showers that are too hot

When it's cold, it's tempting to stay under scalding water for a long time. It feels great in the moment, but very hot water washes away some of your skin's protective lipids. Add a foaming or harsh body wash, and your skin comes out even drier than before.

Clothing and friction

Itchy wool, tights, heavy jeans: repeated friction irritates skin that's already fragile, especially on your legs, knees and elbows.

What's specific to Black and mixed-race skin

Black skin isn't necessarily drier by nature, but dryness is much more visible on it: dead cells that build up on the surface reflect light differently and create that gray, ashy look, especially on the shins, knees, elbows and hands.

The second thing to keep in mind is the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. On darker skin, irritation, repeated scratching or a harsh scrub can leave darker marks that take weeks or even months to fade. So in winter, the goal is twofold: moisturize, and avoid anything that irritates. I explain this in detail in my article on dry Black skin and how to keep it hydrated.

How to recognize winter dry skin

a tight feeling, especially after showering;
rough skin that snags on tights;
a dull, gray or ashy look on your legs and arms;
fine flakes or small bits of peeling skin;
itching, often worse in the evening;
sometimes small cracks on your hands, heels or lips.

If you notice thick patches that ooze, itch intensely or don't improve despite regular moisturizing, it may no longer be simple dryness: it could be eczema, and it's worth getting medical advice.

My step-by-step winter body care routine

Keep showers short and lukewarm. Five to ten minutes in lukewarm water is plenty. Choose a gentle cleanser instead of a harsh soap, and focus it on the areas that need it (underarms, skin folds, feet) rather than your whole body.
Pat yourself dry. Don't rub with your towel: pat gently and leave your skin slightly damp.
Moisturize within a few minutes. This is when your skin holds on to water best. A body lotion rich in humectants is ideal at this step. Our body lotions combine glycerin, lactic acid and grape seed oil. If your skin has cracks or raw areas, avoid applying a product with lactic acid there, since it can sting.
Lock it in with a rich texture. In winter, one layer often isn't enough. On the driest areas (shins, knees, elbows, heels), add a body butter over your lotion to help limit water loss. Our body butters are made with shea butter and cocoa butter. I go over this step in my guide to body butter for Black skin.
Exfoliate less. Skin is more fragile in winter: gentle exfoliation once a week is usually enough, and never on irritated or cracked skin. To find the right rhythm, read my article on how often to exfoliate your body.
Don't forget the overlooked areas. Your hands after every wash, your heels at night under cotton socks, and your lips with a balm.
Protect your skin from the environment. Wear gloves as soon as it gets cold, put soft fabrics (cotton) against your skin under wool, and make indoor air less dry: turning the heat down a little or using a well-maintained humidifier can help.

To fit all of this into a complete routine, find every step in my body care routine for Black and mixed-race skin.

Winter mistakes to avoid

Taking long, scalding showers: one of the top causes of dry skin in winter.
Waiting until your skin is dry to moisturize: in winter, moisturizing should be a daily habit, not an occasional one.
Scrubbing to get rid of ashiness: an exfoliating mitt or a coarse scrub irritates the skin and can leave dark marks. Ashiness is fixed with moisture, not friction.
Scratching: on Black skin, repeated scratching can thicken the skin and leave darker marks. Moisturize the itchy area instead.
Piling on irritating products: scrubs, acids and heavily fragranced products on skin that's already fragile. On irritated skin, go back to basics and choose a fragrance-free moisturizer until it calms down.
Thinking drinking lots of water is enough: staying hydrated matters for your health, but it doesn't replace what you apply to your skin.

When to see a doctor

Winter dry skin usually improves within a few days to a few weeks with the right routine. See a doctor or dermatologist if:

the itching is intense or keeps you from sleeping;
patches appear, red or darker than your skin (on Black skin, inflammation can look purple or dark brown), that ooze, crust or spread;
cracks bleed or become painful;
you notice signs of infection: warmth, swelling, pus, fever;
nothing improves after two to three weeks of consistent care;
the dryness comes with other unusual symptoms (significant fatigue, unexplained weight gain or loss): some conditions, such as diabetes or thyroid problems, can dry out the skin.

If your skin is eczema-prone, my article on eczema and gentle everyday skin care may also help.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my skin so dry in winter?

Because cold outdoor air and heated indoor air are both very dry, which makes water evaporate from your skin more easily. Hot showers and friction from clothing weaken your skin barrier even more.

What is the best moisturizer for dry skin in winter?

The best approach is to combine two types of products: one rich in humectants like glycerin, which draws in water, then a richer texture like shea butter, which helps limit evaporation. On irritated skin, choose a fragrance-free product.

How do I stop my skin from looking ashy in winter?

Moisturize every day, right after your shower, while your skin is still slightly damp, then apply a richer texture to the driest areas. Short, lukewarm showers also make a real difference.

Should I exfoliate in winter?

Yes, but in moderation: gentle exfoliation once a week helps remove dead skin cells, as long as you never use it on skin that's irritated, cracked or itchy.

Is body oil enough to moisturize skin in winter?

Oil doesn't contain water: it nourishes and helps limit evaporation, but on its own it doesn't hydrate dehydrated skin. Apply it to damp skin or after a lotion for better results.

The bottom line

In winter, cold air, indoor heating and hot showers weaken your skin barrier.
On Black and mixed-race skin, dryness shows quickly (ashiness) and irritation can leave marks: gentleness is key.
Short, lukewarm showers, pat dry, body lotion on damp skin, then body butter on dry areas.
Gentle exfoliation once a week at most, never on irritated skin.
Intense itching, patches, bleeding cracks or no improvement: see a healthcare provider.

Written by Aissatou, a nurse for more than 10 years and founder of WITH CARE.